Baba Yaga Music Home » Many-Colored-Land » Costuming Troupes

Costume Design for Dance Troupes

Troupe Costuming vs Soloist Costuming: What We Don't Know CAN Hurt Us

A costume is a magic garment which helps concentrate the powers of imagination, expression, emotion and movement into the creation and projection of a character to an audience. --R Cunningham

10,000 feet10 feet
An effective costume engages the audience's attention and enhances the production and the performance.
  • Control what the audience is paying attention to. Strive to make all parts belong to the whole.
  • Do not sabotage the dance with the costumes.
  • The human mind is hard-wired to pay attention to the exception, not the group. Eliminate the exceptions and the contradictions to keep the audience focused.

What is an audience exception report? The human brain is hard-wired to produce exception reports as a survival mechanism. Think about sitting around a camp in the jungle, keeping a look-out for problems. Tree, tree, tree, tree, tree, tree, LION! Catching exceptions was the key to survival! Unfortunately, this mechanism doesn't turn off just because the audience is watching your dancing instead of scanning for lions.

Group dances are especially problematic because every extra person on stage increases the possibility of sending a contradictory message if you haven't analyzed WHAT the message is and how you will reinforce it!

Read My Hips has done a very good job of harmonious group costuming for TWELVE years!
  1. Define the character;
  2. Establish the overall theme and mood of the dance as intended by the choreographer;
  3. Reinforce the effect of the music.
REASON (story, theme) for being on stage:
It can as simple as: American Tribal group wants to perform together on stage.
The story or theme can be complex, with several sub-themes in action at the same time.
TIME:
Era, year, season, month, day or special date
War, peace
Feast, famine
LOCATION:
Could be in another timeline or on another planet or even purely imaginary.
For ethnic dances, the costuming is often strongly influenced by the garments worn by the original community.
CULTURAL(s):
SUB-GROUP:
Rich/poor
Parent /child
Queen /servant
Farmers/ nomads
Prostitutes / customers
INDIVIDUAL DANCER ROLE:
Role, function
Personality, including age, gender, rank and social status
Protagonist/ Antagonist?
Leads /Supports?
MOVEMENT SUPPORT:
Fast / slow
Smooth / twisting
Level / Leaps and bounds
Earthy / airy
Flowing / syncopated
Small / large
Serpentine / energetic
Q: But I LIKE bling, camel blankets, pink tutus, gold crowns! A: Save them for your solo.
Stage costumes must project OUT to the audience. Delicate details may help the dancer get into role but the audience needs large visual clues.
  • Style:
  • Silhouette:
  • Proportion: Costume pieces and parts should be in pleasing proportion on the dancer's body. Uneven divisions of space are more pleasing than equal or extremely unequal divisions. Do not use equal or extremely unequal divisions unless a jarring or unnerving effect is desired.
  • Color:
  • Scale:
  • Texture and structural texture: use this to stay on message.
  • Line:
Q: You mean that my elaborate henna and tattoo decorations will look like smudged dirt at a distance?
A: Not if they are like Sharon Kihara's!

Q: Wouldn't it be easier and more professional to buy tassels at the store?
A: If it is tassels you want, make them yourself or buy them from a costumer. Don't buy the ones that are designed to go on the bottom of cafe curtains.

In the theatre, the costume designer works with the scenery and lights in mind. We, however, have to try to anticipate the lighting and scenery challenges.
  1. If an understanding of the backdrop and lighting can be obtained ahead of time, choose costumes and accessories that are harmonious with those colors and conditions.
  2. Keeping the group costuming harmonious within the group is a strong remedy for less than optimum lighting or backdrops.
Uh, oh, I forgot my belt. Anyone have a necklace I can borrow? Shoot, I brought the wrong pants!
Do not trigger unplanned exception reports in the audience mind. Here's what each individual DANCER can do to assist.
  • If your bra is not fully re-constructed, make sure ALL original parts (straps, hardware, sides, back hooks) are completely hidden from view under a vest or shrug.
  • When dancing on stage in a flared skirt, cover legs with pants. The sudden sight of bare legs will disconcert the audience as much as a bra malfunction.
  • Check your waist and ankle elastic and your bra hardware BEFORE your performance and in time to fix if necessary.
  • Minimize / eliminate the use of safety pins by analyzing what you use the pins for and figure out if they can be replaced by alterations.
  • Wear trunks or bike shorts, not thongs, under your skirt.
  • Never pin your skirt to your underwear.
  • Keep your costume clean and in good repair. You never know when you will have an unanticipated close up.
Q: Why should I worry about what I wear underneath?
A: Better to expect the unexpected!
Misuse of color will create exception reports as well. Color affects many parts of the body: small but measurable changes occur in heart rate, breathing and skin temperature, which contribute to the pleasure or uneasiness caused by colors.
  • If the venue is a stage, make sure that you use colors that can be seen clearly and are attractive together at a distance.
  • Do not wear an all-red or all-gold costume unless
    1. Other people on stage are also dressed in those colors - or -
    2. You are a soloist or lead dancer who will be manifesting some of the characteristics of that color.
  • Beware the disco lighting!
    1. Plain red light turns colors with any blue in them (including purple and green) into gray and black.
    2. Plain blue light turns colors with red in them (red, orange) into brown and black.
Red is a color associated with courage, danger, excitement, energy and passion, as well as defiance and aggression. "It has been demonstrated that a person driving an automobile in traffic will feel a much stronger urge to pass a red car than a blue car, whatever make, model or size the car might be."

Yellow is the first color that the human eye notices. The right yellow denotes confidence, extraversion, emotional strength, creativity. It is a symbol of the deity in many religions. But pure yellow can irritate, lower self-esteem, provoke fear and anxiety.

Ornamentation and jewelry should NOT contradict the desired message, silhouette, color blocking or motion. Allowing all dancers to pile on ornaments and jewelry DOES achieve consistency, but avoid this unless also consistent with:
  • The reason (story, theme) for being on stage;
  • The era;
  • The location;
  • Identification within a sub-group on stage
  • The individual dancer role;
  • The movements in the dance (earthy vs airy, flowing vs syncopated, small vs large)
 
Dress to your role in the group. Contradictions make you stand out as an irritation and/or eyesore. Unless you are acting as a soloist within the dance, do NOT trigger an audience exception report by using larger and more elaborate ornaments than the rest of the ensemble. The audience will get annoyed when they realize that your costume cues and your role in the dance are at odds. Wearing a well-fitted costume that is harmonious with the rest of the group is actually your best tactic for looking good on stage. Q: If I wear a really fancy bra drape, the audience will look at ME.
A: Better make sure you buy one for all your troupe mates as well!
The costume should flatter the individual dancer as well as the group.. within reason.
  • Strive for a design that all can wear. Do NOT use one-size-fits-all pieces unless they truly fit all sizes.
  • The costume should have flattering points for everyone. Do not leave one or two dancers feeling and looking like beached whales.
  • Do not pretend that there will be no fitting issues unless the entire group is model-size. Identify and plan for them.
  • Do not make looking thin on stage your ultimate goal. Wear a nude-color body stocking if you have flesh to hide.
Please do not get upset if a costume shape is not the most flattering choice for YOU. Yes, a certain kind of neck or bra style might suit you better... but that is a consideration for your SOLO costume. A group dance is not about you. Conforming to the group choice will actually make you look better, because you will not be generating exception reports!

Many dancers use skin-toned body stockings to feel less 'exposed' or to dress more conservatively when performing.

A costume must be able to be danced in. You cannot dance your best if your costume is disrupting your attention. Have a plan for holding the garment on your body securely. Your pretty outside fabric is not really your costume; the lining, underlining and yokes that support the garment are your real costume!
  • Synthetic fibers are cool in winter and warm in summer, natural fibers are warm in winter, cool in summer.
  • You must be able to raise your arms, bend over, bend back, jump, turn and twirl without your costume dropping to your knees, ripping under the arms or wrapping itself around your neck.
  • Minimize exception reports in the audience mind..
  • Plan ahead on how you will keep it clean. Will you really have time to remove all the bling before washing it; can you really afford to take it to the dry cleaners after a gig?
  • Plan ahead on how the costume will be altered when necessary.
  • Dancing is a sport. Your costume must be durable. A gig is not the same as a Halloween party.
Atlanta Belly Dance inserted a lot of information about the durability and fit of purchased costumes on their Costume overview page. Highly recommend that you read it... then you'll understand better why we make our own costumes!

Many-Colored-Land at BabaYagaMusic.com
©2011 by Maura Enright
© means the content is copyrighted. Do not steal it, words or pictures. Linking to content is much appreciated.
M a u r a Z e b r a @ g m a i l . c o m